45° or Graduated Bob Haircut

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  • Lesson Identification and TEKS Addressed

    Cluster : Human Services

    Course : Cosmetology I

  • TEKS Student Expectations

    • (1) The student investigates the employability characteristics of a successful worker in the workplace. The student is expected to:
      • (A) integrate organizational policies, procedures and regulations to establish personal care organization priorities; accomplish the mission; and provide high-quality service to a diverse set of clients
      • (B) employ leadership skills within a community setting to maintain positive relationships that enhance personal care business opportunities
      • (D) apply the technical knowledge and skills required to be successful in careers in the personal care service area
      • (E) justify time-management principles and techniques to achieve objectives and efficiently serve clients
    • (3) The student applies the rules and regulations established by the Texas Department of Licensing and Regulation. The student is expected to:
      • (A) review and implement emergency policies and procedures regarding health and safety
    • (4) The student describes the function and operates the tools, equipment, technologies, human resources and materials used in cosmetology. The student is expected to:
      • (B) plan the range of personal care resources needed for business practice in order to access resources at appropriate times
    • (5) The student integrates the academic and technical knowledge and skills for cosmetology to simulated and actual work situations. The student is expected to:
      • (A) analyze and guide individuals in recognizing concerns and making informed decisions to select personal care services
      • (B) create an individualized plan that reflects client preferences, needs and interests in order to follow a course of treatment or action
      • (C) apply time-management principles and techniques to achieve objectives and effectively serve clients
      • (E) implement ethical and legal conduct while working in the personal care industry
      • (F) execute actions that comply with legal requirements for personal liability to guide personal conduct in the personal care services setting
  • Basic Direct Teach Lesson

    Instructional Objectives

    Students will:

    • define terms associated with the lesson
    • explain correct body positioning and posture
    • demonstrate correct draping
    • demonstrate proper safety and sanitation procedures
    • demonstrate proper methods of handling equipment
    • break down proper sectioning and guidelines
    • demonstrate understanding by cutting a graduated bob with layers
  • Rationale

    Vidal Sassoon’s 1960’s revolution of style changed the way women styled their hair. From weekly big hair style-outs to every day wash and wear, Vidal Sassoon helped to create the classic 60’s look. Learning how to craft the perfect bob or graduated layers haircut will help earn your place as the most sought after stylist in your salon. Let’s take another look at a style that continues to hold its reign as the most classic, and often edgy, style in modern hairdressing history.

  • Duration of Lesson

    Three 45 minute class periods

  • Word Wall

    Correct body positioning: Rolling your shoulders back and standing directly (parallel) in front of the section on which you are working

    Cutting line: Angle at which the fingers are held when cutting, and ultimately, the line that is cut

    Elevation: Angle or degree at which a subsection of hair is held or lifted, from the head when cutting

    Graduated haircut: Graduated shape or wedge; an effect or haircut that results from cutting the hair with tension, low to medium elevation, or over direction

    Guideline: Section of hair, located either at the perimeter of the interior of the cut, that determines the length the hair will be cut

    Haircutting shears: Used mainly for removing length and detailing the haircut

    Interior: Inner or internal part of a hairstyle

    Layered haircut: Graduated effect achieved by cutting the hair with elevation or over direction; the hair is cut at higher elevations, usually 90 degrees or above, which removes weight

    Moving guideline: Guideline that moves as the haircutting progresses, used often when creating layers or graduation.

    Over direction: Combing a section away from its natural falling position, rather than straight out from the head, toward a guideline; used to create increasing lengths in the interior or perimeter

    Part/Parting: Line dividing the hair at the scalp, separating one section of hair from another, creating subsections

    Perimeter: Outer line of a hairstyle

    Sections: To divide the hair by parting into uniform working areas for control

    Stationary guideline: Guideline that does not move

    Tension: Amount of pressure applied when combing and holding a section, created by stretching or pulling the section

    Texturizing: Haircutting technique designed to remove excess bulk without shortening the length

    Thinning shears: These tools are great for removing excess bulk and for blending one length with another

    Weight line: Visual line in the haircut where the ends of the hair band together

    Wide tooth comb: Tool used when cutting thicker and longer lengths, where detailing is not required

  • Materials/Specialized Equipment Needed

    Equipment:

    • computer with projector for PowerPoint™ presentation

    Materials:

    • photos of graduated layers haircuts

    Supplies:

    • barber comb
    • blow-dryer and concentrator
    • clippers
    • cutting cape
    • cutting comb
    • mannequin and stand
    • medium round brush
    • neck strip
    • shears
    • trimmer
    • water bottle

    • copies of all handouts (see All Lesson Attachments tab)

  • Anticipatory Set

    Display as many of the materials and supplies from the Materials/Specialized Equipment Needed section as you have available on a table in front of the classroom.

    Print the photos of graduated layers hairstyles or cut them out of a magazine and display them around the room.

    Address key terms in today’s lesson and how they relate to the photos.

    Assign a scribe to write notes on the board from student comments.

    Ask students the following questions:

    • Are you inspired by the modern design of a classic bob?
    • Name a few celebrities who have fashioned this classic look.
    • What are some details that give this classic haircut its unique look?
    • Do you know who Vidal Sassoon is?
    • Did you realize that geometry and architecturial designs inspired the graduated layers look?

    Continue the discussion about the importantance of this modern haircut.

  • Direct Instruction with Special Education Modifications/Accommodations

    Review lesson objectives, terms and definitions.

    Distribute graphic organizer Note-Taking – 45° or Graduated Layers Haircut (see All Lesson Attachments tab) so that students may take notes during the slide presentation.

    Introduce PowerPoint™ 45° or Graduated Layers Haircut (see All Lesson Attachments tab) and lead a discussion about this haircut.

    View YouTube™ video from BDangerousHair (with permission):

    • Short Curly Hair Dallas
      Brian is a Hairdresser and Licensed Cosmetology Educator, who helps his clients achieve the look they want, without compromising the texture or fabric of the hair. Brian offers a wide range of services and treatments to enhance the quality of the hair and bring out its natural shape.
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vQZMfDNC4a4&index=1&list=PLA206B691631CD771

    Individualized Education Plan (IEP) for all special education students must be followed. Examples of accommodations may include, but are not limited to:

    • working with a peer during note-taking
    • having a copy of the slide presentation on which to take notes

  • Guided Practice with Special Education Modifications/Accommodations

    Review the Cosmetology Administrative Rules (see All Lesson Attachments tab) for the general requirements of the Health and Safety Standards.

    These standards include:

    • clean and disinfect equipment, tools, implements and supplies before use on each client
    • use clean towels for each client
    • use clean cutting implements and shampoo capes for each client
    • use a sanitary neck strip or towel
    • employ good hygiene habits while providing cosmetology service


    Distribute handout Graduated Layers Vocabulary (see All Lesson Attachments tab) and allow students to define the vocabulary.

    Distribute handout Graduated Layers Sectioning and Guidelines Diagrams (see All Lesson Attachment tab) and instruct the students to identify the proper sectioning and guidelines needed for a graduated layer haircut.

    Demonstrate the following procedures for the students:

    • correct body positioning and posture
    • correct draping for a hair cut
    • proper methods of handling equipment
    • remind students about correct safety and sanitation
    • break down of sectioning and guidelines for a haircut
    • moving guidelines
    • the wet haircut
    • the blow dry
    • refinement and texturizing
    • cross-checking

    Individualized Education Plan (IEP) for all special education students must be followed. Examples of accommodations may include, but are not limited to:

    • allowing more time
    • peer tutoring

  • Independent Practice/Laboratory Experience with Special Education Modifications/Accommodations

    Students will:

    • practice the haircutting techniques on their mannequins
    • work independently with their mannequins

    Important: Students should follow the haircut style instructions/procedures in order to give the client their desired style.

    Distribute Rubric for 45° or Graduated Layers Haircut (see All Lesson Attachments tab) so that students may know what is expected.

    Individualized Education Plan (IEP) for all special education students must be followed. Examples of accommodations may include, but are not limited to:

    • providing more time for practice
    • frequent feedback

  • Lesson Closure

    Review lesson objectives, terms and definitions.

    A beach ball toss may be used for this review.

    Remind students that there will be a quiz over the terms and definitions at the end of the lesson.

    Script: Today we learned how to create a timeless, classic haircut that continues to be popular. Your dedication to mastering the art of shape and style will help grow your clientele full of loyal customers with every walking billboard you produce.

    Question and Answer Session:

    • What is the importance of over direction within this haircut?
      • Without over directing behind the ear, the weight line changes from diagonal forward to horizontal.
    • What is the difference between a stationary guideline and moving guideline?
      • Sections are pulled back to the same stationary guideline. A moving guideline travels throughout the haircut.
    • How does elevation play a role in graduation and layering?
      • The higher the elevation, the more length and weight is removed. This causes the hair to move freely and with more movement.
    • How does texturizing enhance the overall haircut?
      • It removes bulk and weight from heavy areas around the head.
    • Why is it important to follow all safety and sanitation?
      • To prevent the spread of unwanted disorders and diseases.

  • Summative/End of Lesson Assessment with Special Education Modifications/Accommodations

    Students will demonstrate their haircutting skills.

    Students will be assessed with appropriate rubric.

    Distribute handout 45° or Graduated Layers Haircut Quiz (see All Lesson Attachments tab) and allow students to evaluate their knowledge of terms.

    Individualized Education Plan (IEP) for all special education students must be followed. Examples of accommodations may include, but are not limited to:

    • quizzes of reduced length
    • oral quizzes
    • immediate feedback

  • References/Resources

    Images:

    • B. Rodriguez, Licensed Cosmetology Instructor: Used with permission from Brian Dangerous Hair.
    • Microsoft Office Clip Art: Used with permission from Microsoft.

    Textbook:

    • Milady standard cosmetology: Situational problems. (2012). Clifton Park, NY: Cengage Learning.

    YouTube™:

    • Short Curly Hair Dallas
      Brian is a Hairdresser and Licensed Cosmetology Educator, who helps his clients achieve the look they want, without compromising the texture or fabric of the hair. Brian offers a wide range of services and treatments to enhance the quality of the hair and bring out its natural shape.
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vQZMfDNC4a4&index=1&list=PLA206B691631CD771
  • Additional Required Components

    English Language Proficiency Standards (ELPS) Strategies

    • word wall
    • work with peer tutor
    • peer to read materials
    • highlighted materials for emphasis
    • shortened simplified instructions
    • use Cornell notes to draw and associate visuals to grasp newly introduced concepts
  • College and Career Readiness Connection

    AchieveTexas Career Cluster Crosswalks

    The Career Cluster Crosswalks housed on the AchieveTexas website http://www.achievetexas.org/index.html provide Texas teachers with a direct connection between their CTE course TEKS and the College and Career Readiness Standards (CCRS). Language Arts, Mathematics, Science, Social Studies and Cross-Disciplinary integration are the focus of the CCRS. These college and career readiness standards are essential in the planning and delivery of CTE lessons. The extent to which the integration occurs is determined by the methods and strategies utilized by each teacher.

    Career Cluster Crosswalks for Education and Training, Hospitality and Tourism and Human Services Career Clusters can be found at:
    http://www.achievetexas.org/Career%20Cluster%20Crosswalks.htm

  • Recommended Strategies

    Reading Strategies

    Articles pertaining to this lesson that students may read include:

    Reading strategy:
    Encourage students to “visualize” as they read. Many students are visual learners and will benefit from making sketches or diagrams on scrap paper as they read. Providing students with graphic organizers to help them organize their thoughts is also helpful.

  • Quotes

    Hair brings one’s self-image into focus.
    -Shana Alexander

    We learned to put discipline in the haircuts by using actual geometry, actual architectural shapes and bone structure. The cut had to be perfect and layered beautifully, so that when a woman shook it, it just fell back in.
    -Vidal Sassoon

    If you get hold of a head of hair on somebody you’ve never seen before, cut beautiful shapes, cut beautiful architectural angles and she walks out looking so different – I think that’s masterful.
    -Vidal Sassoon

  • Multimedia/Visual Strategies

    PowerPoint™:

    • 45° or Graduated Layers Haircut
    • Presentation notes – 45° or Graduated Layers Haircut

    Technology:

    Files for downloading:

  • Graphic Organizers/Handout

    Graphic Organizers:

    • 45° Haircut Sectioning and Guidelines Diagrams
    • 45° Haircut Sectioning and Guidelines Diagrams (Key)

    Handouts:

    • 45° or Graduated Layers Haircut Quiz
    • 45° or Graduated Layers Haircut Quiz (Key)
    • 45° or Graduated Layers Vocabulary
    • 45° or Graduated Layers Vocabulary (Key)
    • Note-Taking – 45° or Graduated Layers Haircut
    • Rubric for 45° or Graduated Layers Haircut

    Files for downloading:

  • Writing Strategies

    Journal Entries:

    • The difference between graduation and layering is …
    • The proper sectioning and parting angles of the modern bob are …
    • It is important to complete each haircut with phase three, detailing and finishing, because …

    Additional Writing Strategy: Students will write a RAFT writing strategy from the perspective of a client in the 1960’s seeking a Sassoon style makeover for the first time.

    Role: 1960’s client
    Audience: self
    Format: diary entry
    Topic: graduated layers cut

    Explain why this wash and wear kind of style holds a new sense of freedom from weekly styles of old.

  • Communication 90 Second Speech Topics

    • The modern bob was inspired by architectural designs of city landscapes. I draw creativity from this by …
    • Three reasons the 45° haircut is classy and edgy are …
    • Vidal Sassoon changed modern hairdressing by…
  • Other Essential Lesson Components

    Enrichment activity

    Students may view the video and practice the blow-drying technique on the mannequin:

  • Family/Community Connection

    Students can practice their blowout techniques on their friends, family and members of the community.
    This “Dry Bar” service will focus on student dexterity and round brush techniques.

  • CTSO connection

    Skills USA

    www.skillsusa.org

    • Cosmetology
      Students will demonstrate their skills in haircutting, hair styling and long hair design in four separate tests. All work is performed on mannequins so everyone begins with the same model and the same type of hair. Contestants will create one 90° women’s haircut, one woman’s and one man’s cut from a finished photo. A display of creativity is seen in the long hair segment of the competition where these future salon professionals demonstrate their own design skills. A parade finale closes the contest with each contestant walking down the stage with their completed mannequins to present to the audience.
  • Service Learning Projects

    Successful service learning project ideas originate from student concerns and needs. Allow students to brainstorm about service projects pertaining to this lesson. For ideas, visit:
    www.ysa.org

    Possible idea:
    Set up a community hair donation event.
    Students can take part in giving back to their community by donating ponytails cut from volunteer’s hair to a wig-making non-profit organization that benefits cancer patients. This opportunity will strengthen student confidence in working with the public and allow students to practice short haircuts. Encourage students to invite their friends and family.

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